COSSIGNANO
Cossignano is a delightful medieval village perched on a hilltop 400 metres above sea level in the Ascoli Piceno province of Le Marche between the famous towns of Offida and Ripatransone (both historically important in terms of the cultural and artistic development of Ascoli Piceno). Cossignano is just 15 km from the elegant seaside resort of Grottamare.
Cossignano with a population of just over 1000 inhabitants is situated in the heart of the D.O.C wine and Extra Virgin Olive Oil producing countryside. From every vantage point in the village one can admire the hillsides covered with vineyards, olive groves, woodland and yellow fields of wheat and sunflowers – a perfect tapestry.
In the distance the blue of the Adriatic sea and the dark forms of the Sibillini mountains and the Gran Sasso of Abruzzo perfectly frame this tamed countyside and the towns and villages that crown the summits of the hills. At night the flickering yellow lights of the villages offer quite a different sight to admire whilst enjoying a glass of the local wine.
Like every hilltop village in this area, Cossignano has its own specific history giving rise to specific architectural features, customs and traditions. Of significant importance is its strategic position that led to it being an object of contest between Ascoli and Fermo.
The principal structure of the old defensive castle was created in the 14th century but the history of this village dates back much further. In 1924 a piceno necropolis was discovered revealing a collection of funeral artifacts (mainly bronze) testifying to its ancient past. Cossignano's most illustrious citizen was Lucio Afrani, Roman Consul in 60 B.C.
Cossignano has a beautiful main square housing a bar/osteria (great food!), which has a delightful seating area underneath a portico with vaulted ceilings and colourful tiled floor. Also in the square you will find the clock tower and the Chiesa dell'Assunta housing two of Dante de Carolis's paintings: The Warrier St George on a white horse and the Assumption. The church is also worth a visit to meet retired priest Don Luigi – a delightful man.
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Wandering through the narrow streets you will come across another spectacular church: Chiesa dell'Annunziata where the Francescan monks took refuge in 1388 after the destruction of their convent during the war between Ascoli and Fermo. The church is currently being restored as a museum and houses some beautiful 14th/15th century frescoes.
Further Cossignano houses a small museum recording the farming civilisation and their traditions.
Cossignano really is one of Le Marche's most picturesque villages and its historical importance has ensured that villagers today retain a pride in their customs and traditions which they maintain through a series of festivals and sagras the most important of which are:
17th January: Festa di S. Antonio Abate
23rd April: Festival of the patron saint of the village St George – a 5 day event including local produce markets, firework displays, processions, food, wine and dancing.
9th August: Fried fish Sagra
15th August: Sausage Sagra
MASSIGNANO
This village has retained its typically medieval aspect with a tree lined entrance leading through the old castle gate into the village which is full of delighful historic buildings. Massignano is perched on a hilltop in the Ascoli Piceno province of Le Marche, surrounded by countryside typical of the area with vineyards, olive groves and fields of sunflowers giving it a truly Italian feel. There are some delightful views stretching from the sea to the Sibillini Mountains.
It is situated on a hill 255m above sea level at 6km from the Adriatic coast between the pleasant seaside resorts of Cupra Marittima, Grottamare and San Benedetto to the South and Pedaso and Porto San Giorgio to the North. Easy access to the main coastal roads make this an excellent base from which to discover the delights of this region.
Like most of the Le Marche hilltop villages it has a long history, and it has seen many battles in its day. Today you can still see the remains of the castle as well as the elegant palazzos of wealthier times. In the attractive main square: Piazza Garibaldi, the church of San Giacomo Maggiore hosts a 14th century painting by Vittore Crivelli, and the council building houses a pottery and terracotta museum, once important industries in the village (in fact the old traditonal methods are continued today in Palazzo Laurantoni).Next to the church is a small museum of sacred art. Also in this square is a lovely bar from which to admire the architecture whilst planning the days activities or winding down at the end of the day.
Massignano is well known for its meats, pecorino cheese, and olive oil and wines (Rosso Piceno and Falerio).
In or near the village you can find a tennis court, swimming pool, golf course, several shops, bars and restaurants. Being so close to the sea there are several excellent fish restaurants nearby. The village has a children's play area and a beautiful tree lined walk with spectacular views south across the typically italian countryside. This area is used daily by the locals thereby ensuring that the community spirit of this village is maintained.
A number of sagras and festivals ensure that the village is full of life and has a lively atmosphere. This area is enjoyed by the italians from the large cities searching for a high quality of life who flock here during the summer.
Public Footpaths
One of the greatest delights of this village are the public foot or bicycle paths that connect the 3 villages: Campofilone, Massignano and Montefiore dell'Aso.
These footpaths were once used frequently by the country folk going about their daily working lives and whilst today they have lost their importance, the pleasure that they offer continues. Here remains an opportunity to see a hidden corner of Le Marche that is gradually shrinking.
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Wandering through this trail you will still find evidence of the traditional labour intensive farming of the past. Turning a corner you may stumble across a lonely farmhouse seemingly inhabitable only to discover an elderly couple, still tending their vegetable plots, orchards, vines, olive trees, chickens and rabbits as they have done for 60 or 70 years. Alternatively you may encounter a shepherd guiding his flock with the sound of the sheep bells ringing gently in the air.
On these paths you will also discover that, despite what seems to be written in many of the articles on central italy, there is a wide variety and an abundance of bird life in this area. Birdsong (or the tapping of woodpeckers) will follow you through your walk and if you are lucky you will see the timid hoopoe or cuckoo, woodpeckers, pheasant and an abundance of smaller birds (the wren and the long tailed tit being my favourites).
These paths not only take you through the countryside but also through each of the villages where you can wander and visit some of the important churches and other historical buildings, as well as having a rest in one of the local bars and watching the locals going about their daily lives.
Both the main airports serving the region are within an hour's drive of the village.
MONTEFIORE DELL'ASO
Montefiore Dell'Aso sits 411 metres above sea level only 10 minutes from the seaside resorts of Pedaso and Cupra Marittima. Perched on the summit of a hill surrounded by fertile countryside, Montefiore remains proud of its farming community and their traditions. To the north is the Val d'Aso famous for its orchards and nurseries, providing a a rich tapestry of pink and white blossom during the early spring, and an abundance of fruit and vegetables throughout the year. To the south you can discover the Val Menocchia and explore the vineyards and olive groves that produce the D.O.C wines and extra virgin olive oils for which this area is famous.
The village has a long history as revealed by the discovery of Piceni tombs from the 7th and 6th Centuries B.C. Its strategic position ensured that it remained an important and sought after village by all the warring factions throughout the ages. All of which have left their impact on the architectural, religious, artistic and cultural aspects of Montefiore.
Much of the original fortifications of the village remain standing today and a walk around Montefiore Dell'Aso will reveal some delightful architectural features, notably the “portale Della Pinnova” and the Church of St Francis with its 14th century frescoes and beautiful cloisters. This village really has too many delightful buildings and artefacts of historical importance to write about here, but it is worth noting that the famous artist Adolfo De Carolis lived in Montefiore Dell'Aso and some of his works can still be found here.
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Montefiore Dell'Aso has a very active “pro loco” responsible for organising festivals and other cultural events. These volunteers work hard throughout the year to ensure that there is always something to look forward to in the village and that the vital community spirit is maintained. Of particular interest are the Shrove Tuesday Carnival festival and the Autumn fair in September.
Driving into Montefiore Dell'Aso between the old castle wall and the line of tall trees you will arrive in a beautiful piazza on the south side of the historic centre. Here a number of stylish bars and shops reflect the natural flair of the italians and the great pride that they have in their local produce. Here is the perfect spot to enjoy a cup of coffee or glass of wine and sit at the tables on the terrace allowing your eyes to wander from the blue of the Adriatic sea, across the vineyards and olive groves, to the majestic Appenine mountain chain (especially beautiful when snow capped). Later you can wind your way up to the piazzas at the top of the village and marvel at the churches and historic buildings that characterise this delighful village, before dining at one of the village's beautiful restaurants.
Public Footpaths
One of the greatest delights of this village are the public foot or bicycle paths that connect the 3 villages: Campofilone, Massignano and Montefiore dell'Aso.
These footpaths were once used frequently by the country folk going about their daily working lives and whilst today they have lost their importance, the pleasure that they offer continues. Here remains an opportunity to see a hidden corner of Le Marche that is gradually shrinking.
Wandering through this trail you will still find evidence of the traditional labour intensive farming of the past. Turning a corner you may stumble across a lonely farmhouse seemingly inhabitable only to discover an elderly couple, still tending their vegetable plots, orchards, vines, olive trees, chickens and rabbits as they have done for 60 or 70 years. Alternatively you may encounter a shepherd guiding his flock with the sound of the sheep bells ringing gently in the air.
On these paths you will also discover that there is a wide variety and an abundance of bird life in this area. Birdsong (or the tapping of woodpeckers) will follow you through your walk and if you are lucky you will see the timid hoopoe or cuckoo, woodpeckers, pheasant and an abundance of smaller birds (the wren and the long tailed tit being my favourites).
Theses paths not only take you through the countryside but also through each of the villages where you can wander and visit some of the important churches and other historical buildings, as well as having a rest in one of the local bars and watching the locals going about their daily lives.
MONTERUBBIANO
On the top of one of the highest hills in eastern Le Marche (463 m above sea level) Monterubbiano boasts views that cover the whole area from the Adriatic sea to the Sibillini Mountains that cannot fail to astound its visitors. Its outstanding beauty and architecture have resulted in it being awarded the Italian Touring Club Orange Flag.
Its origins can be traced back to the Piceni peoples and due to it strategic position it remained an important and frequently contested village through the ages. Today the greenery around the old defensive walls provide a relaxing atmosphere for a quiet stroll. The village itself developed around separate quarters each with their own distinct church and frequently with subtle differences in architecture which are still visible today.
Its importance throughout history has ensured that Monterubbiano has developed a strong cultural and artistic heritage which it cherishes to this day. There is no shortage of interesting paintings and other artifacts displayed throughout the village in its churches or museums. Teatro Pagani named after Monterubbiano's noted 16th Century painter: Vincenzo Pagani, hosts a large number of musical and theatrical performances.
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The village has a population of 2,500 inhabitants, and hosts a range of shops, including butchers, bakers, newsagents, hardware store, tobacconists, pharmacy,fresh pasta shop and mini markets, as well as a Bank, a post office and bars and restaurants. The restaurant on the top floor of the Hotel Sforza offers stunning views of the Sibillini mountains – worth a visit!
Whilst you can always find something to do in the village particularly during the summer months when it sagras and festivals are numerous, Monterubbiano is ideally situated at just 10 minutes from the delightful seaside resort of Pedaso and from Fermo the capital town of Fermano.
Ripatransone
This beautiful Le Marche town is situated 494 metres above sea level on a ridge on the Northern slopes of the Tesino Valley, just 12 km from the sea. It has incomparable views stretching from Mount Conero(Ancona) to the Grand Sasso(Abruzzo), and from the Dalmatian coast to Puglia. Ripatransone is known locally as “il Belvedere del Piceno.”
Ripatransone is one of the oldest and most important centres of the province of Ascoli Piceno. Walking through its streets you will note the numerous plaques attached to houses giving details of the important historic person/artist who once lived there. You will also marvel at its numerous magnificent churches that reflect the historical importance of the town.
There are 6 museums in Ripatransone, sculpture collections, various artists'/artisans studios, and 3 theatres, 2 of which are open air. The rich historical culture of this town is reflected in the fact that today the town hosts a number of exhibitions, festivals, musical and theatrical performances throughout the year including the famous “London Jazz Festival.”
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Ripatransone has been awarded the Italian Touring Club Orange Flag due to its outstanding beauty and the facilities that it offers (including a large number of shops, bars and restaurants). Its beauty has long been recognised and the local council was one of the first in the region to begin to preserve its historical centre. Today you will marvel at the quality of the tasteful restorations that have taken place.
Ripatransone has also been awarded the Green Flag for its agriculture. Situated in the heart of one of the most important D.O.C wine and extra virgin olive oil producing areas of Le Marche, agriculture remains important to the town. Excursions to the wine cellars and olive mills are enjoyable experiences.
CARASSAI
Carassai, with its 1,300 inhabitants, is placed on a hill ( at 365 m above sea level) between the rivers Aso and Menocchia, ; it is 18 km from the sea, 50 km from the Sibillini Mountains and 17 km from the A 14 motorway. From every vantage point in Carassai there are spectacular views whether of the Sibillini Mountains, the rolling hillsides dotted with olive trees, hilltop villages, vineyards and sunflower fields, or the valleys stretching as far as the Adriatic sea.
Carassai is very important historically, with discoveries in the surronding area of neolithic origin. Today in the village centre two ancient cores are evident: one of feudal origin, called the "Old Castle" and one of medieval origin, called the “New Castle.” Near the New Castle are the recently restored 14th and 15th centuries fortified walls: the so-called MILITARY TRENCHES. Also worth looking out for the street signs retaining the Fascist symbol, and the church next to the Council offices, recently restored by local volunteers fortunate enough to have to hand most of the original materials collected by a diligent neighbour who throughout the years saved each piece that fell from the slowly crumbling church.
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Its main traditional activities are the production of wine (including Rosso Piceno and Falerio), olive oil and fruit but also of pork meats, cakes, pastry and mushrooms. Its handicraft boasts the production of local artistic ceramics, the manufacture of gold and the restoration of wood and iron.
Sporting activities include football, tennis, basketball and motorcross.
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Carassai has several bars and restaurants and celebrates several festivals and sagras throughout the year. There is a delightful park at the entrance to the village where the locals relax during the long hot summer days.
CASTIGNANO
This delightful hill top village rests 473 metres above sea level at the front of Mount Ascensione, 24 km from the main provincial town Ascoli and the popular seaside resort of San Benedetto.
Set in the heart of the DOC vineyards of Rosso Piceno Superiore, visitors will not be disappointed with the quality of the wine found at the Cantine di Castignano. This is in fact my favourite Cantina and I am a rather too frequent visitor (well, you go and they offer you free wine to taste!!). The growing importance of locally produced wine is helping to ensure that the countryside retains its characteristic features and protecting the important farming community. Try the local Pecorino white wine!
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The views from the village stretch across the rolling hills, east to the clear blue of the Adriatic Sea, and south and west to the Appenine Mountain chain of Ascoli Piceno and Abruzzo. The immediate countryside around the village is quite dramatic: bold hills, cut away by the erosion of the water abundant in this area and the phenomenon of the geological Calanchi, a special feature of this area, locally cultivated aniseed, the extract of which gives the local spirit Mistra its distinctive flavour and horse chestnuts- roasted on open fires in many of the village squares during the autumn and washed down with Vino Cotto- another local phenomenon.
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The views from the village stretch across the rolling hills, east to the clear blue of the Adriatic Sea, and south and west to the Appenine Mountain chain of Ascoli Piceno and Abruzzo. The immediate countryside around the village is quite dramatic: bold hills, cut away by the erosion of the water abundant in this area and the phenomenon of the geological Calanchi, a special feature of this area, locally cultivated aniseed, the extract of which gives the local spirit Mistra its distinctive flavour and horse chestnuts- roasted on open fires in many of the village squares during the autumn and washed down with Vino Cotto- another local phenomenon.
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As with all the medieval hilltop villages of this province, Castignano has a wealth of spectacular buildings and artistic and cultural delights. The gothic church of Saint Marina is particularly noticeable with its cotto cornicing- note the T symbol (symbol of the powerful military order of the temple) of the templars.
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The church of St. Egido, with its neo-classic style, preserves some valuable works of art including the Madonna Del Rosario (late 16th/early 17th century) , an oil painting by Simone De Magistris- famous Le Marche artist.
Castignano’s most important festival is the festa of the Templars. It is a three or four day spectacular (around the 16th, 17th and 18th of August), not to be missed. It’s not only an historic rievocazione, but a complete medieval festa with a different theme each year. I loved it – but you really need to learn Italian first!
Castignano is one of the area's larger villages and there is always something happening here. The people are particularly friendly (or at least they are after I've been for a wine tasting). The hotel Teta is a convenient lunch stop offering typical italian food at reasonable prices. At nearby Capradosso there are two excellent restaurants, one the Madonnina, and the other I don't know (it doesn't even look like a restaurant!), but the food is great.
Accommodation:
Fiorenire - Cocci Pompilio Francesco e Cocci Carla -C.da Filette - Castignano Ristorante e pernottamento - Tel. 0736/821606 (aperto da marzo ad ottobre)
Piane di Enea - Paoletti Maria Elvira -loc. Ripabernarda via Piane, 4 - Castignano
Ristorante e pernottamento - Tel. 0736/823190 (aperto da febbraio a giugno e da agosto a dicembre)
Colle Rufiano - Colletta Domenica - loc. Rufiano, 2 - Castignano Pernottamento - Tel.0736/821692 (aperto tutto l'anno)
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ORTEZZANO
Altitude 301m
Population 843
A beautiful historic centre looking south across the Val D'Aso with its wonderful spring orchard blossom. Archeological finds show a Roman presence (to be found in Contrada Cisterna, Prato and St Massimo. There are some stunning buildings in the village, notably the Gothic Porta Da Sole and its distinctive tower. The churches house the usual number of “not quite famous” paintings – impressive nontheless.
Ortezzano has a couple of bars and various shops.
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However, what sets Ortezzano apart from other villages is its restaurants!!!!!! If you have young children don't take them to Mamma Rosa the first night or you might just find that they will not let you explore any of the other restaurants. Mamma Rosa is situated in the valley floor below the village and is a pizzeria, pasta and meat restaurant so typical of this area. During the summer you can eat outside in the garden where the chef cooks the meat on his BBQ in front of you. Good priced food and excellent service. Popular with the locals.
Also down on the valley floor is La Luna, a similar restaurant. This is also very popular but somehow I am always taken to Mamma Rosa. I think Petritoli goes to Mamma Rosa and Montalto goes to La Luna.
I Piceni – ah I Piceni – what a wonderful restaurant!!!! This is one of the most popular restaurants in the area. The chef worked for a number of years in America and has returned home to create a modern, upmarket version of traditional seasonal italian cooking. The food is excellent and please try the desserts!! They are soooooo nice (and don't be afraid to ask for the bread back so that you can mop up all the delicious sauces!). I am not sure how he gets the ingredients to work together but they always do. There is an excellent wine list. It is situated in the historic centre with an outside dining terrace during the summer.
La Rosa Del Vento can also be found in the historic centre. I went there one evening (well I Piceni was closed). I did enjoy the meal but when the bill came I thought: it wasn't that good! It does however remain popular and I would return (if I Piceni was closed!).
Agriturismo Vecchio Gelso: this agriturismo has a lovely restaurant which is open both for lunch and dinner. The food is good and reasonably priced and the service is excellent. Food should always be served with a smile!!
Back down on the valley floor you will find Sgaly's wine cantina. The family that run this small but growing cantina are extremely passionate about their wines and are sure to offer you a taster or too. They form part of the Associazione Agritur Aso which was set up to promote tourism in the area as a means to protecting the local countryside from industrial growth.
Accommodation: there are a number of agriturismi and their links are set out below.
Agriturismo La Casa Degli Gnomi
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